Kitchen Renovation Cost London 2026: What You'll Really Pay

The single biggest variable in any kitchen renovation budget is the kitchen itself — the units, worktops, appliances, and fitting. But the building work behind and around the kitchen can easily cost as much as the kitchen units — or more.

**The four cost components of a kitchen renovation**:

1. **The kitchen unit supply**: from flat-pack IKEA to fully bespoke handmade kitchens, the range is enormous. The kitchen units are usually client-supplied to rcbGroup under our standard terms — we install what you choose. 2. **The building works**: structural openings, new drainage, first-fix electrics and plumbing, flooring, tiling, plastering, decoration 3. **Appliances**: oven, hob, extractor, fridge, dishwasher, washing machine — usually client-supplied 4. **Professional fees**: architect (if extending or changing layout), structural engineer, Building Regulations

**Note on rcbGroup terms**: second-fix materials including kitchen units are client-supplied under our standard terms unless specifically agreed otherwise. The building works are what we quote and manage.

• **Structural opening / wall removal (to create open-plan)**:
• •Small opening (1.0–1.5m): £3,500–£5,500
• •Medium opening (2.0–3.0m): £4,500–£7,500
• •Full-width opening (3.5m+): £7,000–£14,000
• •Includes: structural engineer, temporary propping, steel RSJ, padstones, fire protection, initial making good

• **First-fix electrical works (kitchen circuits)**:
• •New dedicated circuits (cooker circuit, island sockets, fridge, dishwasher, boiler): £1,800–£3,500
• •New consumer unit + all kitchen circuits: £3,500–£6,000

• **First-fix plumbing (kitchen)**:
• •New cold/hot supply to sink, dishwasher: £800–£2,000
• •Relocation of sink to new position: £1,500–£4,000 (includes moving drainage)
• •New drainage run (if kitchen moves significantly): £2,000–£5,000

• **Underfloor heating (kitchen floor)**:
• •Wet UFH system (screed-based): £80–£150/m² installed, excluding screed
• •Electric UFH mat: £50–£80/m² installed
• •Screed (if wet UFH): £30–£50/m² plus cure time of 4–6 weeks

• **Kitchen floor**:
• •Porcelain or ceramic tile (labour only, client tiles): £40–£80/m²
• •Natural stone or large format tile (labour only, client tiles): £70–£130/m²
• •Hardwood or engineered wood (labour only, client boards): £35–£60/m²

• **Wall tiling (splashback and feature areas)**:
• •Porcelain or ceramic tile (labour only, client tiles): £45–£85/m²
• •Natural stone or large format tile (labour only, client tiles): £75–£140/m²

• **Plastering and making good**:
• •Full plaster (after structural work): £600–£1,500 for a typical kitchen
• •Patching and making good only: £300–£800

• **Decoration**:
• •Full decoration including ceiling and walls (kitchen-size room): £800–£1,800

These ranges cover the building works only (not kitchen units, appliances, or worktops — see note on client-supply above).

• **Like-for-like renovation (same layout, no structural change, no extension)**:
• •Small kitchen (under 10m²): £6,000–£12,000
• •Medium kitchen (10–15m²): £9,000–£18,000
• •Large kitchen (15m²+): £14,000–£28,000

**Kitchen with structural opening (wall removal to create open-plan)**: Add £3,500–£14,000 to the above, depending on the size of the opening.

**Kitchen extension (new single-storey rear or side-return extension)**: See rear extension and side return extension guides for the extension cost (£35,000–£130,000+). The kitchen renovation within the new extension adds a further £8,000–£28,000 in building works.

• **Including kitchen units and appliances** (for budgeting purposes — note these are client-supplied under rcbGroup terms):
• •Budget kitchen units (IKEA, B&Q): £3,000–£8,000
• •Mid-range units (Howdens, Wren, DIY trade brands): £8,000–£20,000
• •Premium units (Nolte, Schuller, Poggenpohl): £20,000–£60,000
• •Bespoke/handmade units: £30,000–£120,000+
• •Worktops: £400–£5,000 (laminate to stone)
• •Appliances: £1,500–£20,000+ depending on brand and specification

⚠️ Disclaimer: these are 2026 London estimates. Actual costs depend on your specific project, specification, and site conditions. A detailed estimate is only possible after a site visit and agreed scope.

Several common mistakes significantly increase the final cost of a kitchen renovation — or create problems that have to be corrected after the fact.

**Changing the position of the sink without checking the drainage**: Moving the sink from one wall to another is possible, but the drain run must slope to the external drain without going through load-bearing walls. In some London terraced houses, the drainage run is very short from the existing position — moving the sink even 1.5 metres can require a significant new drainage run. Always ask the contractor to check the drainage route before committing to a new sink position.

**Not allowing for the screed cure time**: If wet underfloor heating is specified, the screed must cure before tiles or flooring can be laid — 4–6 weeks minimum for standard screed, 1–2 weeks for fast-drying screeds (at higher cost). This must be built into the programme. Not allowing for it leads to either delays or compromised floor finishes.

**Ordering kitchen units before the structural opening is confirmed**: Many homeowners order kitchen units at the start of a project. But if the structural opening turns out to be slightly different in width (because of a beam size or a structural requirement), the units may not fit as planned. Do not order units until the structural frame is in and the final opening dimensions are confirmed.

**Underestimating the cost of the waste disposal and drainage**: Garbage disposals, waste disposal units, and large sinks with multiple bowls require larger drainage connections. Always specify to the plumber exactly what the final sink configuration will be.

**Underestimating the cost of the extraction**: A kitchen extraction system is both a Building Regulations requirement (Part F) and a practical necessity. Ducted extraction (running a duct to the exterior) is far superior to recirculation. In a London terrace, routing the duct to the exterior can be through the external wall directly behind the hob, or through the soffit externally. The longer the duct run, the more complex — and the noisier and less efficient the extraction. Factor duct routing into the kitchen design from the start.